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Westin Diplomat Resort & Spa, Hollywood *** Talented Chef Craig Berkower at Aizia offers traditional Asian fare with contemporary flair in a setting that is sleek and sophisticated, yet relaxed and comfortable . By Jana Soeldner Danger When a dish arrives at at Aizia, it goes in the center of the table; family style. And your order may arrive at a different moment than others in your group – all quite on purpose. At Aizia, the newest dining spot at the Westin Diplomat Resort & Spa in Hollywood, Chef Craig Berkower encourages sharing. Every dish is prepared fresh to order and delivered immediately, so everyone at the table has time to taste and exclaim over the food before something else arrives. The concept makes Aizia an especially good place for socializing and conversation – two important elements of the dining experience. Berkower, who spent the past four years with Rivals at Diplomat Landings and was chef de cuisine at Chef Allen’s in Aventura for a dozen years before that, has implemented a menu rich in spices and flavors. “We purposely stayed away from Asian fusion,” Berkeower said. “Instead, we went with a traditional menu with contemporary flair.” Aizia is in the space formerly occupied by Satine, a pricier, more formal venue with a clubby atmosphere. The new incarnation is designed to be more approachable and have wider appeal. A long, black stone bar illuminated with dramatic pendant lights and black, hard-surface tables create a setting that is sleek and sophisticated, yet casual enough to be friendly and comfortable. In daylight, floor-to-ceiling windows framed with dramatic, cream-colored drapes offer a view of resort’s pool and the ocean beyond, while after dark, candlelight casts a romantic glow throughout the long, narrow room. Nestled around the perimeter are several groupings of sofas and cushioned chairs surrounding low cocktail tables. A meal begins not with the usual basket of bread, but with a healthy bowl of crunchy edamame dusted with sea salt. There’s a nicely balanced wine list, but only a few pours are offered by the glass. The signature drinks here are infused sakes –reminiscent of the fruity martinis that have become ubiquitous in the dining scene, but made with a base of high-grade, rice-distilled sake instead of gin or vodka. The addition of herbs and spices like basil, mint, lemon grass, clove and coriander, plus ingredients like pear, Calendula flower, dates and mangos create whimsically fascinating flavors. There’s also a list of specialty teas. Appetizers The menu offers a selection of impeccably fresh sushi rolls, nigiri and sashimi ($2-$16), but our favorite starter was curry coconut mussels. The shellfish was plump, juicy, and very fresh, flavored with chilies, roast red pepper, scallions, fresh ginger and garlic. The mussels glistened in a light, flavorful coconut milk broth laced with red Thai curry paste that provided just enough heat without overpowering their delicate taste. Firecracker shrimp ($12) were jumbo-size, very fresh, lightly breaded and stuffed with a simple yet delicious mixture of crab meat, cream cheese and chopped onion. A julienne of carrots, red onions and cucumbers dressed with cool, tangy vinaigrette was a nice foil for the spicy red curry sauce. Duck spring rolls ($14) were very crispy, and the wrappers were tasty, but there could have been more ground duck in the filling. The accompanying kumquat soy mustard and hoisin sauces provided mild accents. Other appetizers include sugar cured barbecued pork ($13); kumomoto oysters ($18); beef satay ($14); coconut and lemon grass soup ($10); and enoki and shitake mushroom soup. Entrees The crunchy, crispy skin of a whole, head-on yellowtail snapper ($34) contrasted beautifully with the texture of the tender, moist, mild-tasting interior flesh. A refreshing sauce made with fresh lime juice, rice vinegar, brown sugar and soy, and seasoned with garlic, shallots, basil and mint was a perfect complement to this hearty dish. Roast duck ($24) was tender, moist and tasty, its dusky flavor accented with a sweet-tart reduction of mandarin oranges and tangerines, balsamic vinegar and brown sugar. The dish was quite delicious. Other entrees include a two-pound Maine lobster ($65); banana leaf-wrapped sea bass ($29); Mongolian beef ($26); shrimp pad Thai ($17); chicken curry ($21); kalbi-style braised short ribs ($27); and for vegetarians, Indonesian noodles ($13). Desserts Creamy passion fruit crème brulee ($9) had a crispy crust and an interior with a smooth, tangy interior. Coconut sorbet was a cool, sweet accent. Thai jewels ($8) a combination of lychee and coconut foam, was creamy and very light, with an extremely mild flavor. Other desserts are chocolate banana spring rolls ($8); caramelized pineapple cake ($9); dark chocolate lava cake ($10); and coconut and Medjool date dessert martini ($15). Aizia offers traditional Asian fare with contemporary flair in a setting that is sleek and sophisticated, yet relaxed and comfortable. Serving to the table rather than the individual encourages sharing makes it a very good choice for a romantic dinner or a gathering of friends. |
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