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 "Without the freedom to criticize, there is no worthy praise." Beaumarchais | |
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David Bouley, the acclaimed Chef/Owner of Bouley, Danube and Bouley Bakery & Market in New York, has at long last opened david bouley Evolution—his much anticipated first venture outside of Manhattan— adjacent to the Ritz Carlton South Beach. Designed by the world famous architect, Jacques Garcia, whose clients count the Sultan of Brunei and who designed the mythical Fouquet’s, La Duree, the Hotel des Beaux Arts and La Grande Armee, among other Parisian landmarks, the 7,000 square feet space is decorated in a seductively understated yet dramatic Art-Deco style - l’Esprit de Miami or the Spirit of Miami - and is intimately partitioned to comfortably accommodate 200 guests in a 77-seat main dining room, a 40-seat private dining room, a lounge, a rotunda, a sushi bar and a bar. David Bouley who has trained with Europe’s top chefs, such as Roger Vergé, Paul Bocuse, Joël Robuchon, Gaston Lenôtre and Frédy Girardet, in top restaurants both in France and in New York, has developed his own style of cuisine carried on by his hand-picked team: Pierre-Philippe Saussy, chef de cuisine; Gustavo Adolfo Agudelo, baker; Scott Harlan, pastry chef; Yoann Bagar, wine director; and Albert Trummer, bar chef. Japanese dishes are prepared by a team of Japanese chefs. The menu is contemporary French with global accents, or, in Mr. Bouley’s own words: “the menu treats the different cultures behind our cuisine – French and Japanese -- with integrity, not with the confusion of fusion…” Every ingredient is of the highest quality, says Mr. Bouley, who seeks out regional farms and purveyors of superior products for all of his restaurants. In the main dining room, appetizers ($14 to $30) range from organic Connecticut farm egg with black truffle, Serrano ham and a sweet garlic broth, and seared foie gras with Agen prunes from France and puree of quince, to tuna sashimi with julienne of Asian pear, garlic chips, kaffir lime, rocket salad in miso dressing, and phyllo-crusted Florida shrimp, Cape Cod baby squid, diver sea scallop, Maryland crabmeat in an ocean herbal broth. For entrees ($32 - $41) fish dishes such as black sea bass in scallop crust with coconut jasmine rice in sauce Bouillabaisse; Cape Cod lobster in “exotic manner,” Atlantic halibut in a “ Borscht manner,” are followed by meat dishes like rack of Cooperstown lamb with homemade gnocchi and zucchi-mint puree; Long Island ducking with honey lavender glaze; roast chicken in “ Portuguese manner,” milk-fed veal with daube of Chanterelles, and prime dry-aged sirloin with Aligote potatoes (an exciting Auvergnat way of cooking potatoes with cheese), Armagnac and black currants. A selection of cheeses ($21) comes from Terrance Brennan Artisanal Connoisseurs with a basked of home baked bread, and then, there’s desserts ($13 - $16) : Hot Valrhona chocolate soufflé, Callebaut chocolate brioche pudding with expresso meringue and green pepper ice cream; pineapple soufflé with molten pistachio core; palatschinken or wild huckleberry crepes…. A tasting menu is available for $90 or $160 with wine pairing, and there’s a good selection of wines by the glass and a huge list including boutique and rare wines ($49 and up). David Bouley Evolution’s main dining room is open seven days for dinner Sunday through Thursday from 6 p.m. to 12 a.m., on Fridays and Saturdays from 5:30 p.m. to 2 a.m., and is scheduled to open for brunch, lunch and tea by mid 2007. L’ Etoile at the Rotunda and Bar is open likewise Sunday through Thursday 5:30 p.m. to 12:30 a.m., and on weekends till 2 a.m. 1669 Collins Ave., (between Lincoln and 17th St.) at the Ritz Carlton South Beach, Miami Beach. 305-604-6090 |
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