|
|
|
Back to Home 
Advertise
Subscribe  Email this Article
ARCHIVES
Back to newsletter
|
 "Without the freedom to criticize, there is no worthy praise." Beaumarchais | ||
        |
** By Jana Soeldner Danger With all the ethnic restaurants in South Florida, American fare is sometimes overlooked in the world of fine dining. Fifty restaurant and lounge on South Beach, however, showcases American cuisine at its best by combining ingredients and flavors from the country’s multi facetic regional cuisines. Executive Chef Roly Cruz-Taura “Progressive American Cuisine” is the essence of the melting pot of cultures and cuisines that define America today. Cruz –Taura, who has loved cooking since he was a child, was studying engineering at Georgia Tech when he decided he’d rather be in the kitchen. He transferred to Florida International University, earned a degree in hospitality management, and never looked back. He began his career at the InterContinental Miami’s Pavillion before joining the Mayfair House Hotel where he ended up being the Executive Chef. He honed his skills as Chef Mark Militello’s sous chef at Mark’s in the Grove and as Executive Chef at Shula’s on the Beach. The dining room at Fifty is small and cozy. The color palate is reminiscent of good food -- deep chocolates, warm curry, artichoke and caviar tones highlighted by metallic golds and silvers. Dark wood cabinets, terrazzo floors, and indirect lighting add to the warm, friendly ambiance. On one side of the room, a large circular bar wraps around a central hearth, offering a stylish, low-key gathering place for friends. The dining area holds half a dozen nicely spaced tables. Stools and chairs upholstered in soft suede, and graceful, sand-colored drapes add warmth and texture, and soft music provides a backdrop for conversation. A counter along one wall seats 12, and offers hibachi-fired dinners by the bite. At lunch, it doubles as a raw bar. There’s also outdoor seating, where guests can watch the fascinating flow of Ocean Drive traffic. The well-chosen wine list includes about 150 selections from around the globe, with a dozen available by the glass, as well as half-bottles and wine flights, or liquors and cocktails from the full-bar. Those who like variety might want to try one of the tasting menus, priced at $65, that change nightly. Fifty’s menu also includes cheese plates, still a fairly unusual offering in South Florida. All the cheeses are American -- a choice of three is $12; five are $18. Appetizers On the tables small bowls of natural salts – Australian pink, Hawaiian, and sea salt smoked on the premises, each in its own dish, and freshly baked foccacia are a welcoming touch to a wonderful menu of appetizers The Pastas ($15 - $21) are delicious, all housemade, and can be ordered as appetizers as well as entrees. We began with the luscious, hearty goat cheese gnocchi with a creamy, garlicky sauce of forest mushrooms, broccoli and roasted tomatoes. Equally good are the black pepper fettucine with wild shrimp, andouille sausage, ramps and green beans, and the cavatelli with duck confit. The jumbo lump crab cake wrapped in thin ribbons of green plantain ($12) is meaty, firm and flavorful with a drizzle of avocado aioli and herb-infused avocado oil. Other appetizers include a trio of calamari ($12); veal sweetbreads ($10); a fresh-tasting Minnesota wild rice tabbouleh ($7); pan-roasted sea scallop ($9); and Kobe steak tartare with apple, celery, cipollini and roasted jalapeño in tomato water ($18). Entrees The Steak, Chops and Poultry ($19 - $39) section indicates the provenance of each cut: from Roasted Jurgielewicz Farms Long Island duck and Tanglewood Farms chicken breast to Harris Farms Angus filet mignon from Kansa and Kurobuta pork osso bucco with crispy crackling and late-harvest Riesling jus. While the Long Island duck breast was moist with a rich, wonderful dusky flavor accented by a sweet-sour caramelized citrus sauce, the confit leg served with it was slightly dry. The Seafood ($24 - $28) section stands out with Maine lobster cioppino; sesame seared Ahi tuna and crispy skin Alaskan salmon with leek and tomato stew. The whole snapper ($28) was outstanding -- as fresh and flavorful as a just-caught shore lunch. The fish is taken off the bone, and the crispy, crunchy skin beautifully complements the moist, firm-tender, meaty flesh. Blood-orange nage and fennel slaw finish the dish with panache. Side dishes alone such as the spinach flan with a rain-walnut vegetable glaze, and the Jasmine rice and stir-fried vegetables ($5), and certainly the desserts ($8-$10) are a good reason to head to South Beach. Desserts Desserts are made on the premises by former Cordon Bleu pastry chef instructor Carolina Romero: The ice creams are rich, the tres leches Boston cream pie ($9) – nothing like traditional Boston cream pie -- is light and delicious, the milk-soaked cake accented with dark cocoa sorbet, orange ice cream, and macerated raspberries. Other desserts include key lime fantasy ($9); chocolate croissant cake pudding ($8); and chocolate trifecta ($9). Fifty offers the winning combination of a creative menu, excellent food and a cozy ambiance in jazzy South Beach. |
|
Home
Advertise
Subscribe
Privacy Policy
About Us
Contact Us
Copyrights