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 "Without the freedom to criticize, there is no worthy praise." Beaumarchais | ||
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A great place for fresh seafood. Jazzy atmosphere, great wines another example of restaurateur Jack Jackson’s professionalism and commitment to quality. By Jana Soeldner Danger For decades, restaurateur Jack Jackson has been known for terrific steaks. Fish A Restaurant is his foray into an eatery specializing in seafood. Burt and Jack’s at Port Everglades, an upscale cafe Jackson in partnership with actor Burt Reynolds, was legendary for its high quality meat and Maine lobsters during a period when the South Florida dining scene offered far fewer options than it does now. After September 11, 2001, however, getting into the Port got to be more trouble than most diners were willing to put up with, and the restaurant closed. Jackson then opened Jackson’s Steakhouse on Las Olas Boulevard, which quickly grew into another success. Jackson opened Fish A Restaurant when he decided to try a different format in Fort Lauderdale rather than open another steak house in a different city. His daughter Nikki Jackson manages the day-to-day operations. With its laid-back elegance, well-prepared dishes made with quality ingredients and simple yet artful presentation, the restaurant carries Jackson’s stamp of excellence. It struggles, however, with a less than ideal location in the sparsely occupied Port City Center on Fort Lauderdale’s 17th Street. “However,” says Jackson, “Seventeenth Street is still in its infancy, but it’s becoming a dynamic place with restaurant options, which is always a good thing.” The understated dining room at Fish features cream-colored walls, light fixtures that mimic sea anemones, cozy banquettes, high-backed wood chairs and crisp white tablecloths. Here and there are romantic nooks that can be curtained off for privacy. A large, glass-enclosed wine rack covers most of one wall. Soft background jazz encourages conversation. There is also outdoor seating, but not much of a view. Fresh seafood is brought in daily and the menu changes frequently. For the most part, preparations are simple so complicated sauces don’t get in the way of the main event. Meat lovers are not left out -- there are several prime cuts of steak. Appetizers We began with the lobster bisque ($12 The classic dish made with heavy cream, lobster broth and shallots contained a generous amount of shellfish with a dash of Sherry and Hungarian paprika. The wrapper on a lobster spring roll ($14) was crispy but a bit thick, and there was a low ratio of shellfish to vegetables. It was the only disappointment of the evening. Other appetizers include mahi-mahi dip ($9); tuna tartar ($13); shrimp cocktail ($16) and barbecued shrimp ($12); blue crab cakes ($14); lump crab meat ($15); fried calamari ($8); oysters on the half shell ($12 for a half dozen); and pan seared diver scallops ($12). There is also a selection of flatbreads ($8-$13). Entrees The best dish of the evening was apricot-glazed black grouper ($34). A thick cut, firm, supremely fresh and luscious. A sweet glaze made with dried apricots, honey and white wine was a perfect complement to the delicate yet rich taste of the fish. Couscous seasoned with jerk spice and accented with roasted pecans added texture and crunch and fresh spinach provided a splash of color. Lobster and squid ink ravioli ($25) was also superb. The pasta pockets were nicely el dente, and the lobster was fresh and succulent. A rich sauce made with heavy cream, lobster broth and white wine was delicious. Other entrees include diver scallops Oscar ($36); wild salmon ($36); avocado mahi-mahi ($29); andouille-crusted swordfish ($36); red curry shrimp ($32); sesame-crusted tuna ($36); and macadamia-crusted Chilean sea bass ($39). There’s also a three pound stuffed Maine lobster (market price) and lobster tail ($59). Meat lovers can chose from USDA prime cuts like filet ($33); New York strip ($37); and ribeye ($38). Desserts At Fish, desserts come in trios ($9) so diners can try small portions of more than one. There’s classic crème brûlée, chilled dark and milk chocolate mousse– good but not outstanding. The apple tart, made with tart fruit, a crispy crust and just the right amount of cinnamon, was a favorite. Key lime pie was also nicely tart, light and creamy, with a tasty, crunchy graham cracker crust. Fish A Restaurant is a great place for fresh seafood. It is another example of restaurateur Jack Jackson’s professionalism and commitment to quality. |
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