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"Without the freedom to criticize, there is no worthy praise." Beaumarchais
Hollywood Prime
Westin Diplomat Resort & Spa, Hollywood

***


Address: 3555 South Ocean Drive, Hollywood.
Phone: 954-602-8347.
Hours: 5 p.m. to 11 p.m. Tues-Sat; closed Sun. & Mon.
Cuisine: Prime aged beef and fresh seafood.
Service: Knowledgeable and extremely attentive
Prices: Appetizers $8.95-$95; entrees $26.95-$100; desserts $9.95- $16.95.
Wine: 498 domestic and international pours.
Credit cards: All major









Hollywood Prime
Westin Diplomat Resort & Spa, Hollywood
***


By Jana Soeldner Danger


A steak house might not be a place you would expect someone who abstains from red meat to enjoy her wedding dinner. But Nikki McMahon, wearing a elegantly simple white sundress, dined at Hollywood Prime with her new husband, Howard McMahon, after the couple from Orlando exchanged vows on Hollywood Beach.

Why? Because they had heard such good things about the signature restaurant at Hollywood’s Westin Diplomat Resort & Spa.

Chef Will Biscoe had been forewarned of the nuptials, and prepared a special sans beef dish for Nikki, which she said was fabulous. But if you are one who does enjoy red meat, you will swoon over the incredible steaks at Hollywood Prime. Beef is truly king here, and its royal qualities are very apparent from the first to last bite.

Prime has a Rat Packish, gentleman’s club glamour with soft edges, combining the elegance of the past with the flair of modern chic. Rich dark mahogany and leather are a backdrop for brushed stainless steel accents. The dimly-lighted lounge is dominated by a long, marble-topped bar, while the high-ceilinged dining room is small and intimate, although the tables are well spaced

A mahogany, glass-fronted wine rack dominates one wall, displaying some of the restaurant’s 498 vintages. Servers work in teams of three, so every diner receives plenty of attention. Crisp white cloths top the tables, and Frank Sinatra croons in the background.

Chef Biscoe’s experience includes serving as executive chef at Bobby Van’s Steakhouse in Washington, DC and as executive chef at Indigo in Great Falls, Vir. At Hollywood Prime, he oversees a menu made up mostly of outstanding steaks, plus a few excellent seafood entrees.

The prime beef is aged 21 days, giving it a rich texture and a robust flavor. Presentation is beautiful, but this isn’t sculpture food. Portions are extremely generous, and there are few complicated sauces or seasonings to veil the freshness and flavor of the main event. Simple side dishes that complement the meat and seafood are large enough to share. Everything served is made on the premises, including the signature steak sauce, which has a citrus oil base and 16 herbs and spices.

Starters

A basket of whole wheat sourdough bread, fragrant with dill and crunchy with poppy seeds, arrives at the beginning of dinner. It is the hearty, crusty kind that might come from Great-Grandma’s oven. There’s plenty of sweet butter, too. Melt-in-your-mouth, seared foie gras ($19.95) was velvety and luscious. The accompanying caramelized pears dressed with champagne vinaigrette and port wine reduction added just the right touch of sweetness to the foie gras’ earthy flavor. Crab cocktail, a special of the evening, was a heap of sweet, fresh crab meat with a delicious sauce.

Beef carpaccio ($13.95) with reggiano cheese shavings contrasted with the slightly bitter bite of arugula, and was drizzled with truffle oil. Oysters Diplomat ($15.95) is a simple, wonderful dish of sweet, fresh and tender shellfish quickly pan seared, topped with buttery hollandaise, browned lightly under the broiler and served on fresh creamed spinach. Lobster bisque ($14.95) has a rich base fragrant with sherry, and chunks of tender shellfish. The delicious soup is finished with a touch of morel cream.

For caviar aficionados, there is Russian Osetra ($95 for two). Other appetizers include shrimp cocktail ($16.95); oysters on the half shell ($13.95); and onion soup ($8.95).

Entrees

Hollywood Prime’s Kobe Delmonico steak ($100) is without doubt the best piece of red meat we have ever tasted. Dry aging gives it a unique full, earthy flavor. Perfectly cooked to order, it was wonderfully juicy, rich and fork tender with a beautifully seared exterior and a moist, flavorful interior. In one word: fabulous.

The 3 1/2-pound Maine lobster ($79.95) was impeccably fresh, sweet and tender. Although it can be broiled, we chose to have it braised in rich, sweet butter and finished with cream. The dish was rich and heavenly. In addition to a variety of steaks, entrees include rack of lamb ($49.95); salmon filet ($26.95); tuna or swordfish loin ($29.95); and roast duck ($36.95).

A side dish of roasted mushrooms was a mix of oysters, shiitakis and creminis, sautéed in olive oil with garlic and shallots, then baked in the oven and finished with truffle oil. White asparagus was crisp-tender and sweet, served with buttery hollandaise sauce. Crispy on the outside, moist on the inside Yukon Gold hash browns were finished with truffle oil.

Desserts

Dark chocolate cake ($13.95) is a rich desert that is frozen in a mold, then baked for 25 minutes to create a warm liquid center. Contrasting with the heat is chocolate tuile and vanilla bean ice cream. Other desserts include New York cheese cake ($11.95); a trio of Tahitian vanilla, semi-sweet chocolate, and mocha espresso brulees ($10.95); apple tartlet amandine ($9.95); and lemon chiboust ($10.95).

Steak. That’s what you’ll find at Hollywood Prime—along with service that makes you feel as pampered as royalty. Although it is pricey, the restaurant is a jewel of classic dining.
To submit information and tips for this column, please e-mail to: editor@southfloridagourmet.com
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