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 "Without the freedom to criticize, there is no worthy praise." Beaumarchais | ||
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** By Jana Soeldner Danger Tasty American fare with creative twists that take favorite dishes and comfort foods to new levels “I like to play with food,” says chef-owner Michael Wagner. “I wanted to take high-end food and make it approachable for a neighborhood restaurant.” Wagner has worked in high profile South Florida kitchens with local legends like Allen Susser, Mark Millitello, Tim Andriola and Dewey LoSasso. The cozy café in downtown Hollywood, named after Wagner’s late grandmother, is his first independent venture. In the warm dining area, deep purple walls, charcoal floor tiles, a tiered ceiling and chocolate-colored banquettes and chairs combine with flowing white curtains, recessed lighting and stainless steel wine racks to create a comfortable, casual urban chic ambience. Tabletops are gleaming white quartz. “I wanted them to be a canvas for the food,” the chef says. While there are some edges -- bread was served cold-- Lola’s is a place that is bound to draw return diners. The fare is creative but never pretentious, and old favorites are infused with flair that makes them easy to enjoy over and over again. Starters We began with melt-in-your-mouth tender lamb chops ($13), beautifully crusted with coriander. The accompanying red pepper marmalade accented with mint leaves gives the mild chops a sweet-spicy bite, which is cooled by smooth dill yogurt sauce. Lamb chops are one of our favorites, and this version exceeded expectations. Beef short rib ($10), a signature dish at Lola’s, were falling-off-the-bone, fork tender, cooked to earthy, rich flavor in pan juices with carrots and scallions. Orange horseradish gremolata adds bite tempered with sweetness, while a topping of ricotta salata provides depth and texture. An oyster shooter ($5) is a very fresh blue point oyster served in a chilled shot glass, bathed with dry sake, ginger, citrus ponzu sauce, cilantro, scallions and freshly-grated ginger. The briny taste of the oyster together with the bite of citrus and the salty-bitter soy and saki create a complex combination of flavors that work well together. Other appetizers include purple potato skins ($9) topped with sun dried tomato crème fraiche and American sturgeon caviar; scallop Rockefeller ($10); salmon tartare ($9); and baked brie ($10). Entrees Although we started with a rib appetizer, we couldn’t resist trying a different form of this perennial favorite for a main course. Lola’s Coca Cola barbecued beef ribs ($22) are slow roasted and basted with a sweet and spicy sauce in which the soda is a main ingredient. Crispy onion rings made with buttermilk batter and sweet creamed corn laced with tarragon complete this platter of traditional comfort food. Crab ravioli ($24) are whole wheat pasta pockets stuffed with Maryland blue crab meat. The sun dried tomato cream sauce was tasty, but overpowered the mild flavor of the shellfish. Earthy crimini and mild button mushrooms add texture to the dish, while hazelnuts provide nice crunch. Also among the entrees are ricotta gnocchi ($18); pan-seared yellowtail snapper ($29); seafood risotto ($24); flat iron steak ($22); herbed salmon ($21); skillet seared chicken breast ($19); turkey tenderloin ($19); and bone-in filet mignon ($32). Desserts Except for the housemade key lime pie, desserts (all $6) are prepared off the premises by a bakery that uses Wagner’s recipes. Raspberry crème brûlée had crunchy crust under which the creamy inside had a full, rich berry flavor. An apple and walnut tart was studded with crunchy nuts and plump with tart apple slices laced with just the right amount of cinnamon. Other choices are guava cheesecake, key lime pie, chocolate covered strawberries, and molten lava cake. There is also a selection of ports and dessert wines. Comfortably chic, Lola’s offers American favorites dressed up in their best. Wagner combines creative seasonings and fresh ingredients to add new flair to food that is also cozily familiar. It’s a terrific addition to Hollywood’s dining options. |
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