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First International Exhibition of Quality Ciders Gijón, Asturias, Spain By Simone Zarmati Diament Click here to hear live interviews with cider makers at SICER
The city of Gijón, in Asturias, on the rugged North West coast of Spain constantly reshaped by the rough Cantrabric Sea, is thousands of years old. Its history, which can be traced to the Astur tribes nearly 3,000 years ago, when Gijón was still a fishing village way before it became Lusitania and before the Roman conquest, is a testimony to the constant changes of this ancient and beautiful town
Early mediaeval texts mention it as "Gigia,” which applied to a small peninsula presently referred to as Cimadevilla, literally "top of village," – today a picturesque tourist attraction and night life spot -- between two beaches, one of which has a recreational marina today.
The coastline of Asturias, with its chilly, briny air, its gorges, valleys, fertile plains and verdant mountains looks like it’s been ripped off the coast of England by some ancient and terrible tectonic movement. And like in England or Normandy in France, one of the main natural crops is apples. And, like everyone knows, since Adam and Eve the apple is at the core of human history.
From the Golden Apple of Discord -- a reference to Greek mythology, in which an apple, which was to go the the fairest of them all, sparked a vanity-fueled dispute between the goddesses Hera, Athena and Aphrodite that eventually led to the Trojan War--, and the archery demonstration of William Tell in the 14th Century, who received was forced to shoot an apple off the head of his son, Walter, or else both would be executed; to Newton’s apple which provided him with the proof of gravity; to Sleeping Beauty’s poisoned apple and the “one apple a day keeps the doctor away,” the apple, in all its shapes and forms has provided lore, food and drink to those who were fortunate enough to have them in abundance. Traditional farming methods are still widely practiced throughout Asturias and the region’s remote mountain villages safeguard a way of life which has hardly changed for centuries. Cider, being a direct derivative of apples, has all the benefits – vitamins and minerals - that the fruit provides. The totally natural beverage which has been brewed in the same way for centuries if not millenia, is the quintessential local drink – it tastes different in every region and every country that makes it – and has never been celebrated as it was this past May 3 to 6, 2007, at the First International Exhibition of Quality Ciders, in Gijón, Asturias.
For three days Gijón lived up to its moniker “Capital of Cider” and it’s Convention Center, bedecked with colorful banners and flags, was abuzz with cider makers from many parts of the world. SICER managed to bring together over 60 quality cider producers who showcased over 300 different types of ciders from Europe (Spain, France, UK, Germany, Switzerland, Italy...), Canada (with ice-ciders), US, and Japan. For these producers, SICER meant a unique opportunity not only to see and taste other countries’ ciders, to attend educational seminars and inspirational tastings, but to present their products to national and international buyers and members of the press.
Still or fizzy, fresh or iced, poured from a bottle or a barrel, the low-alcohol ciders were the centre of conversations and attention to the point that even food was only second and in function of how it could be paired with ciders. The bounty of Asturias, including deep sea fish and shellfish from the cold waters of the Cantabric Sea, and the three-milk Cabrales cheese (goat, sheep and cow milk, according to the season’s availability) is known for its freshness and quality, and can be enjoyed in any of the many siderias in town, at a very reasonable price.
WHERE TO STAY Hotel Abba Playa Gijón, Paseo del Doctor Fleming 37. Tel: 985-000-000/fax: 985-000-001. This four star hotel faces the beach and the bay leading to the old town of Cimadevilla, literally "top of village," – today a picturesque tourist attraction and night life spot. Hotel Tryp Rey Pelayo, Avda. Torcuato Fernandez Miranda 26. Tel: 985-199-800/fax: 985-199-809. Next to the Reina Isabel’s Park, this very comfortable hotel with all the modern amenities offers a spectacular breakfast and is at a walking distance from everything in Gijón. WHERE TO EAT Sidreria Tino El Roxu, La Costa 30. Tel:985-140-991, www.tinoelroxu.com is one of the best sidrerias, serving typical Asturias fare including tapas, the rich fabada Asturiana, fresh cider and the freshest and best fish and shellfish I’ve had in a long, long time. You can see waiters pouring cider in the traditional way.
WHERE TO GO Sandwiched between the Bay of Biscay and the Cantabrian Mountains, Asturias is one of the Iberian Peninsula’s best kept secrets. The majestic Picos de Europa (Peaks of Europe) national park attracts walkers from all over the world and some of its better known trails could almost be called crowded in August. But the rest of the region remains relatively untouched by modern tourism and the ravages of man, both of which have combined to blight some of Spain’s other areas of outstanding natural beauty. There are tours to explore the wine route, the cheese route and the cider route. Cimadevilla has been witness to and protagonist of the most significant historical events of Gijón: from its Roman foundation, medieval conflicts, the creation of the port, to the beginnings of industrialization. Cimadevilla, the picturesque hilltop quarter of Gijón, is a testimony to the fishermen, cigar makers, soldiers, crafts folk who were born, lived and worked here. Great restaurants and night life.
Some of these important archaeological finds date back more than 100,000 years.
The coastline between Ribadesella and Gijon has some of the most important Jurassic dinosaur fossils and footprints in the world. Dino-devotees should make tracks for the La Griega Beach where the fascinating Jurassic Museum is built in the shape of a dinosaur footprint. Nearby Oviedo, at 45 km from Gijon is the region's capital, located more or less at its geographical center, and is remarkable for its pre-roman monuments and its great cathedral. The churches and monuments in and around Oviedo, the ancient capital of Asturias, make it a World Heritage site. | |
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