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Little Torch Key, Florida By Simone Zarmati Diament
But no, Not anymore; things have changed in the Keys, starting with the cranes and construction work on a wider, newer road. “Good thing too,” says my husband thinking of quick evacuation routes during hurricane season. “True,” I agree reluctantly, “progress is necessary.” But, still, nothing is the same any more in the Keys. Restaurants have been remodeled, re-sold, and whole communities “gentrified.” The cost of real estate has soared up like a heated thermometer, and people like my friends the Nichols who used to own a flourishing lobster and stone crab business in Lower Matecumbe Key had to sell out after Hurricane Wilma. But the Seven Mile Bridge is still there in all its glory, specked with laid back fishermen who seem to have been there forever, their tan leathery under the wide brimmed hats. The emerald islands glitter afar in shimmering warm Caribbean blue on both Bay Side and Ocean Side. And as you keep driving down at 35 miles per hour (don’t think of speeding: you’ll get caught -and heavily fined- by one of the very polite policemen lurking behind a mangrove bush) passed the Shell Man stores and the boat yards to MM 28.5 on Little Torch Key, the Keys have worked their magic and you start feeling relaxed as if you’d left behind the load of your work, your life
We have a one night reservation for Little Palm Island Resort & Spa, for which we were asked to notify the staff at the pier of the hour of arrival: the boat to the very exclusive island leaves every hour, on the half hour and the staff in crisp shirts and shorts is there when you arrive, to valet your car, whisk your luggage onto the boat and offer you a coconut and pineapple cocktail. I later realized that they also need the time to place your name on the door of your bungalow.
Off we sailed to Little Palm Island Resort & Spa, a five-acre island three miles offshore in the Atlantic Ocean and 28 miles east of the historic town of Key West, a vision of bliss with white sand beaches, tropical vegetation and soft breeze playfully tousling the branches of palm trees like wisps of hair -- 28 varieties including 250 Jamaican tall coconut palms planted 65 years ago by its first inhabitant, Newton Munson.
One kind of expected Tattoo, the Fantasy Island gnome to materialize, but he was nowhere to be seen. Instead, we were greeted by the suave, French-accented Emmanuel Gardinier, the executive general manager, a man with 20 years experience with international luxury properties -- such as Boyer les Crayères near Reims in Champagne, France. Pat Colee, the owner and chairman of Noble House Hotels & Resorts was delighted when, under Gardinier’s baton, Little Palm Island Resort & Spa received prestigious travel awards, including Travel + Leisure’s World’s Best Service and World’s Best Hotel Europe; Condé Nast Traveler’s Gold List World and World’s Best Hotel Europe.
On the short way to our quarters -- one of 30 thatched-roof luxury bungalows discreetly nestled throughout the island, each with a private sundecks and ocean views --, passing oversized hammocks swaying in the wind, lounge chairs nestled in the white sand, the blue lagoon-style pool, the huge chess set and the Zen Garden, Gardinier delighted in pointing out the variety of birds which you can observe with binoculars set near a window in your bungalow, and the endangered Key Deer who roam free and come to greet you. We treated them like pets, feeding them some of the Island’s vegetation. Looking south, he said, you can see Looe Key National Marine Sanctuary – a must for snorkelers and divers, for which you are provided with a speed boat and a picnic lunch, in addition to snorkeling and fishing gear.
FORGETTING THERE’S A WORLD OUT THERE No phone, no TV, nothing to distract you from the essential beauty of your surroundings: as soon as we soaked in the peaceful serenity of our bungalow’s luxurious atmosphere -- a spacious living room, an indoor and private outdoor shower with a selection of Spa Terre massage oils and bath salts, and a private verandah – and had a sip of the Laurent Perrier Champagne brut cooling in a basket, we went kayaking around the island. Languorously tired, after another sip of Champagne, we crashed for an afternoon nap in the king canopy bed draped in butterfly netting. More Champagne as the magical sunset paints the world in flamingo pink before heading to dinner. ‘How much beauty can one take in one day?’ we thought, as we strolled hand in hand into the candlelit terrace off the dining room. In the kitchen, chef Luis Pous, who comes from Turnberry Isle and the Mandarin Oriental, offers a variety of seafood and fish, meat and chicken dishes perfectly paired to the climate and to the fabulous wine list.
Next morning, at breakfast we saw the world wake up, the fish jumping in and out of the water, the birds chirping, and the best part is that we had nothing more to do than contemplate nature, lounge lazily on a chair with our toes in the water while a silent army of waiters catered to our every whim and maybe, an appointment for one of Spaterre’s heavenly treatments.
Little Palm Island Resort & Spa, 28500 Overseas Highway, MM 28.5, Little Torch Key, Florida. 1-800-3-GET-LOST For more information and reservations: www.littlepalmisland.com
An intimate Chef’s Table dinner series --limited to just 20 people-- set seaside and under the stars, hosted by Chef Luis Pous, formerly of Turnberry Isle in Aventura, Florida and Hotel Plaza Athenee in New York City. The five-course menu, paired with wine hand-picked by sommelier Mario Loszczyk, focuses on fresh ingredients and inventive ways to bring out the depth and intensity of flavor of dishes such as sautéed Florida yellowtail snapper with orange balsamic and culantro emulsion and ‘home state’ farm-raised pork with mango and habanero pepper chutney. Guests will be able to make special requests and speak directly with Chef Luis and about the preparations and pairings. Starlight Social series on the second Thursday of every month thereafter. $150 per person with wine pairings/ $100 without wine pairings. Diners interested in reserving the entire table may do so for $2,500, receiving a $500 value. Advanced reservations are necessary due to the extremely limited capacity. Reservations: 305-872-2551. For more information or to make reservations: (305) 872-2524, (800) 3-GET-LOST or visit the hotel online at www.littlepalmisland.com. - Sunday Brunch. A day at the Island includes use of all amenities. - Watersports. Complimentary use of windsurfers, day sailers, kayaks, canoes and sailboats, as well as fishing rods and reels. Boston Whalers and pontoon boats can also be rented. There is a heated, lagoonstyle swimming pool and waterfall. - Marina. The 10-slip marina can accommodate vessels up to 100 feet for overnight, extended stays or simply for those stopping for lunch or dinner. Reservations are required. - Diving. The dive center, Little Palm Divers, is a member of the PADI International Resort Association. The resort’s on-island facilities include a 30-foot Premium dive boat and a 30-foot Island Hopper and offers a variety of certification courses by PADI certified instructors. - Excursions. Arrangements can be made for SCUBA, snorkeling, backcountry and deep sea fishing, sunset sailing cruises, as well as guided nature tours by canoe and sailboat. Several off-shore and mainland excursions are also available. A highlight for divers is a trip to nearby Looe Key National Marine Sanctuary to explore the wonders of the last living coral reef in North America. Trips to historic Key West can be arranged, as well as visually dramatic and exciting seaplane tours. - Spaterre at Little Palm Island Resort & Spa -- crystal chandeliers, Indonesian and Japanese teak furnishings, soaking tubs and outdoor showers, meditative spaces, where lapping water, rustling palm fronds and the gentle sound of birds set the mood --.is designed to incorporate the style and traditions of east and west cultures. The Spa offers signature body treatments such as theJavanese Lulur Royal Treatment and massages such as the Bali Spice in well-appointed Massage rooms, Couple’s massage room with two, private Ofuro-Japanese soaking tubs, Wet room with Vichy shower, Facial room, Manicure and Pedicure room, Beauty Salon featuring Hair & Make-up Services. --Weddings and receptions For more information or to make reservations: (305) 872-2524, (800) 3-GET-LOST or visit the hotel online at www.littlepalmisland.com. | |
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