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 "Without the freedom to criticize, there is no worthy praise." Beaumarchais | ||
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*** “Perhaps the most intriguing and delicious appetizer –as well as the most beautifully sculpted -- was a slow-cooked duck egg topped with Peking duck and foie gras, along with sweet onions, enoki mushrooms and bonito braised in teriyaki broth…” The Restaurant at the Setai offers a rich dining experience and is open for Miami Spice.. By Jana Soeldner Danger Ask a roomful of dining-room travelers what’s their favorite way to go country hoping and they’ll point to The Restaurant at the Setai in Miami Beach where they can do that in one seating. Luscious options of trans-Asian cuisines from China, Thailand, India, Singapore, Indonesia and Malaysia are on a menu of classic dishes as well as modern interpretations that Executive Chef Jonathan Wright has created by combining ingredients and flavors in innovative ways. With a location in a pricey hotel where rates range up to $2,100 per night, The Restaurant has a lot to live up to. Dark wood, stone, and candlelight create a setting that is tranquil and sophisticated with a calming, Zen-like ambience. Outdoor seating is available at tables situated around a beautiful, geometric reflecting pool that is exquisitely lighted at night. For those who prefer air conditioning, some tables in the dining room offer views of the pool, while others allow diners to watch the choreography of a team of chefs working in a theater kitchen. Background music is soft and low. Service is extremely professional without being stuffy, and waiters are familiar with all the dishes on the menu so they are able to offer pertinent advice. The wine list is extensive and, as might be expected, with high-end prices. All dishes are served family-style, many in traditional serving pieces, with waiters placing them in the middle of the table for sharing. Chopsticks are at every place, but so are forks, so it is not necessary to ask for them. An 18 percent tip is automatically added to your check. Heavenly Starters A meal begins with a basket of Indian bread and a mix of seasonal vegetables in a salty, spicy wine vinaigrette sauce. There is a long list of interesting and creative small plates, as well as soups and dim sums, all served in large enough portions to be shared. Sea urchin ($20) was wrapped first with a shiso leaf, pickled ginger and wasabi, and then in a light puff pastry. Topped with ginger yogurt and caviar, the dish is a well-played mix of crunchy and soft, heat and coolness. Seared tuna belly ($26) had a rich, meaty texture and smoky flavor. The tartness of capers and green olives and the earthy yet delicate enoki mushrooms dressed with a garlic emulsion brought varied flavors and textures to the fish centerpiece. When they are done correctly, frogs legs are one of my favorite foods, and Setai’s version ($24) was excellent. Quickly deep fried for a crispy coating, the very fresh, plump legs were wonderfully tender, without being too soft. A spicy dressing of fish sauce, rice vinegar, tamarind juice and soy packed plenty of heat without overpowering the meat. A pickled cucumber salad cooled the tongue, yet the vinaigrette dressing added its own mildly spicy after-bite. Kumamoto oysters ($18) were light, firm and impeccably fresh over cucumber salsa seasoned with cilantro and lemon grass, plus spicy chunks of jalapeño for contrast. Bite-size cubes of blue fin tuna ($22) drizzled with soy sauce, ginger and sake were tender and flavorful, were good but not outstanding with their baby shiso, Asian pear and lime salsa complements. Perhaps the most intriguing and delicious appetizer –as well as the most beautifully sculpted -- was a slow-cooked duck egg ($28) topped with Peking duck and foie gras, along with sweet onions, enoki mushrooms and bonito braised in teriyaki broth. Poached on low heat for 35 minutes, the egg provides a neutral canvas for the wonderful mix of other flavors. The duck had perfect crispy skin and a moist, tender interior, and the dusky, rich foie gras melted in my mouth. The dish was entirely fabulous. Spectacular Entrees Pork belly ($28) is a menu item I don’t often see, perhaps because of today’s emphasis on lean and low-calorie cuts of meat. This is unfortunate, because it can be a very delicious, memorable dish, as it is at Setai. Braised and then fried, the pork had a crispy outside and a rich, moist interior with a delightfully decadent layer of flavorful fat and another of layer of lean. Quite heavenly. Peking duck ($40 half, $80 whole) seasoned with hoisin sauce was also outstanding. The skin was wonderfully crisp, and the interior was rich and moist, with a dusky yet delicate flavor. A stack of bland steamed pancakes seemed like a bit of an afterthought. A few of the other entrees, all with Asian-style preparations, include Maine lobster ($75); scallops $38) roasted black cod ($48); fluke ($45); langoustines ($45); New York strip ($55) and ribeye ($48) steaks; and Kobe beef tartar ($65). Delicate Desserts Desserts are creative and artistically put together, and are mostly delicate rather than heavy. Jivara crème ($12) was light, fragrant with ginger, and complemented with a citrusy orange and lemon compote. Coconut nectar ($10) was rich with white chocolate mousse, passion fruit crème and pink peppercorns. Coconut sticky rice ($10) served with mango and salted coconut ice cream was my favorite, though it received strong competition from the floral jasmine inspiration ($14) : jasmine flower tea infused with rich chocolate cream accented with lemon jasmine reduction and chocolate caramel lace. A rich dining experience The Restaurant at the Setai offers a rich dining experience. The setting is gorgeous, the cuisine is outstanding and the service is excellent. The experience can also an expensive one. During August, however, there is a four-course prix fixe menu available on weekends for $55. The Restaurant is also participating in Miami Spice, offering a three-course dinner Sundays through Thursdays from 7 to 10 p.m. for $35 per person, and an additional $25 per person for wine pairings. Both are opportunities to experience both the food and the ambience at Setai and not break the budget. |
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